Fishkeeping is often seen as a “beginner’s exotic,” but it can be deceptively complex. Don’t be fooled by the tiny tank-and-goldfish starter kits sold at chain pet stores - most fish need more space, better filtration, and more careful water control than you'd expect.
That said, with the right setup and some consistent care, aquatic pets can be among the most peaceful and rewarding companions in the exotic pet world.
Aquarium Size and Setup
There is no such thing as a “too big” aquarium. In fact, bigger is often better; it’s easier to maintain stable water parameters, there's more swimming space, and the environment can more closely mimic natural conditions.
A few general rules:
- Avoid tanks under 40L for any long-term setup.
- Stock according to the adult size of your fish, not the baby in the shop.
- Ensure you’ve chosen appropriate substrate, décor, hiding places, and plant coverage depending on the species (and whether they’re diggers, open swimmers or territorial).
- Goldfish, by the way, are not suitable for bowls. Ever.
Water Parameters
Different fish species have specific needs for pH, hardness, salinity, and other factors. Some thrive in soft acidic water (like many tetras), while others need hard alkaline conditions (like African cichlids).
Always know your species' requirements before buying. Test kits are essential - not optional. We recommend using liquid test kits over dip strips for accuracy.
Check regularly for:
- pH
- Ammonia
- Nitrite
- Nitrate
- KH (carbonate hardness)
- GH (general hardness)
If you see a spike in one of these (especially pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate), immediately perform a water change to try to reduce levels, then identify the culprit. pH can be down to hardscape materials leaching acids or changes in CO2 levels. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate fluctuations typically mean something is wrong with a tank parameter - such as stocking level, feeding amount, or an unfinished cycle period. Take steps to ensure these are taken care of or prepare to lose fish.
Filtration
Filtration is the heart of your aquarium - without it, your tank won’t last more than a few days before becoming toxic.
There are three main types of filtration:
- Mechanical - Removes debris
- Biological - Houses bacteria that break down waste
- Chemical - Removes toxins and smells (usually with activated carbon)
Choose a filter rated for at least the volume of your tank - ideally more. Clean it regularly (with tank water, not tap water), but never fully replace all filter media at once or you'll destroy your beneficial bacteria.
Cycling
Cycling a tank means building up the beneficial bacteria that convert fish waste into less harmful compounds. It’s a critical first step and must be done before adding any fish.
A properly cycled tank has:
- Zero ammonia
- Zero nitrite
- Low nitrates
This process can take 4–6 weeks or longer. You can speed it up using bottled bacteria and ammonia, filter media from an established tank, or by ghost-feeding during the cycle.
Never add a full stock of fish at once. Take it slow.
Temperature
Know whether you have tropical, coldwater or temperate fish. Tropical fish generally require 24–28°C, while coldwater species like white cloud mountain minnows prefer 16–22°C.
Use a quality aquarium heater with a built-in thermostat. Check water temperature daily with a reliable thermometer, not just the heater setting.
Feeding
Overfeeding is the quickest way to crash your tank. Feed once or twice a day, in small amounts that are fully consumed in under two minutes.
Different fish have different needs:
- Surface feeders need floating foods
- Bottom dwellers need sinking pellets or wafers
- Herbivores may need algae wafers or blanched vegetables
- Remove any uneaten food to avoid fouling the water.
Lighting
Lighting isn’t just for looks - it’s essential for plant growth and healthy fish behaviour.
However, too much light can cause algae blooms, while too little may affect fish activity. Aim for 8–10 hours of light a day using an automatic timer.
Avoid placing your tank in direct sunlight.
Water Movement and Oxygenation
Good water movement helps circulate heat and nutrients, distributes oxygen, and prevents dead spots. Some species love flow, others prefer calm conditions - do your homework to work out exactly what your aquarium inhabitants need.
Signs of low oxygen include fish gasping at the surface. Air stones, sponge filters and surface agitation help increase oxygen exchange. Keep your water line below the filter outlet to ensure surface movement.